Aquarium

AquaOak 150cm Doors and Drawers Aquarium

It comes with two cupboards and two sturdy deep drawers purely for storage, whilst the middle section comprises a faux drawer to increase the internal height available to fit a good sized external filter.

The middle compartment is drilled to allow access for pipework and cabling.

Volume: 310L

Overall Dimensions:
150cm x 45cm x 162cm

Aquarium Dimensions:
139.2cm x 40cm x 61cm

RRP: £1149.99

Equipment

AquaManta EFX 1500’U’

• high powered yet quiet and energy efficient design
• integrated self-priming pump
• integrated UV clarifier
• max flow 1500 L/hr
• aquariums up to 450 litres
• only 60 Watts + 5 Watts UVC
• includes all suitable filter media
• includes all fittings required for easy set up on any aquarium
• integrated quick release tap system means mess free maintenance
• 3 year guarantee

TMC GroBeam 1500 Ultima Natural Daylight (6500K white)

It comes complete with a versatile bracket so it can be mounted to the aquarium. LEDs are highly efficient, and save both money and energy, lasting over 50,000 hours. They also emit little heat, so can be used near water with little heat transference.

Dimensions: 198mm x 198mm x 27.5mm / 7.8" x 7.8" x 1.1" (H x W x D)

Key Features:

• Full spectrum natural daylight - 6500k
• Wide angle beam maximises light spread
• Sealed water-resistant casing and a low DC voltage
• Cool running with low heat transfer to aquarium water
• Offers a minimum of 50,000 hours lamp life
• Lowest running costs and highest useable output of light per unit of energy consumed, with all light output being visible and direct
• 5 year guarantee

Plants

Forground

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/cryptocoryne-petchii-p-5344.html?cPath=255_512

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/lilaeopsis-brasiliensis-p-6910.html?cPath=255_512

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/helanthium-quadricostatus-p-7876.html?cPath=255_512

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/echinodorus-gabrielii-p-7612.html?cPath=255_512

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/anubias-nana-bonsai-p-2768.html?cPath=255_512

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/anubias-nana-mini-p-7407.html?cPath=255_512

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/echinodorus-grisebachii-tropica-p-3912.html?cPath=255_512

Middle

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/nymphaea-lotus-bulb-p-4638.html

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/ludwigia-repens-rubin-p-7832.html?cPath=255_513

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/alternanthera-cardinalis-variegata-p-7445.html?cPath=255_513

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/anubias-coffeefolia-p-5878.html?cPath=255_513

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/cryptocoryne-undulatus-kasselman-p-5345.html?cPath=255_513

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/microsorum-pteropus-windelov-p-4998.html?cPath=255_513

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/microsorum-pteropus-narrow-p-6665.html?cPath=255_513

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/vesicularia-dubyana-christmas-moss-p-6289.html?cPath=255_346

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/vesicularia-ferriei-weeping-moss-p-6287.html?cPath=255_346

Back ground

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/aponogeton-ulvaceus-bulb-compact-aponogeton-p-7751.html?cPath=255_498

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/aponogeton-madagascariensis-bulb-lace-plant-p-3850.html?cPath=255_498

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/aponogeton-capuroni-bulb-p-4955.html?cPath=255_498

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/echinodorus-bleheri-amazon-sword-p-5902.html?cPath=255_514

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/vallisneria-gigantea-p-7251.html?cPath=255_514

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/vallisneria-spiralis-red-p-6962.html?cPath=255_514

https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/eleocharis-sp-p-6559.html?cPath=255_447

Fish

Cherry-shrimp

Care

The beautiful Cherry Shrimp is an aquarium cultivated red form of Neocaridina heteropoda. These shrimp are highly social creatures and are best kept in large colonies. They are suitable for aquariums containing communities of small, peaceful fish only, as larger tankmates will regard them as a snack. Cherry shrimp are excellent algae eaters and will browse on many different algae types. Highly recommended for planted aquaria, they will not damage the plants, but instead, large groups of this species will keep the leaves free from algae. Floating plants seem to be particularly favoured, and these shrimp can often be seen 'hanging around' in the plant cover near the water's surface. Like most species of shrimp, a high nitrate level will not be tolerated; ensure high standards of water quality are maintained at all times. Cherry shrimp will moult regularly whilst growing, and the sudden appearance of perfectly formed shrimp casings on the floor of the aquarium can cause alarm to fishkeepers who have not seen this before. Once the shrimp has moulted, it will remain hidden for a time until the new shell hardens and it has a bit more protection.

Feeding

Will browse on algae. Supplement the diet with algae wafers, sinking pellets, small frozen foods such as daphnia and baby brineshrimp. Vegetable matter such as blanched spinach.

Breeding

Cherry shrimp often breed freely in the home aquarium given optimal conditions. Whilst they can be maintained in quite a wide range of water conditions, they do not tend to breed in water that is too acidic, or in water with a temperature below 21 deg C. The eggs are held underneath the female until hatching takes place (approx. 1 month), and will be visible as a yellow area on the abdomen. Unlike some species, the young do not go through a larval stage and, are instead, born as miniature replicas of the adult shrimp. Many aquarists like to cover the intakes of power filters with fine sponges to prevent the tiny youngsters from being drawn in.

 Red Crystal Bee Shrimp

Care

The beautiful and popular Red Crystal Bee Shrimp is an aquarium cultivated red form of the bee shrimp Caridina cantonensis. These shrimp are highly social creatures that are best maintained in large colonies. They are suitable for mature aquariums containing communities of small, peaceful fish only, as larger tankmates will regard them as a snack. Red Crystal Bee Shrimp are excellent algae eaters and will browse on many different algae types. Highly recommended for planted aquaria, they will not damage the plants, instead they will feed on any dead leaves - and large groups will also be beneficial in keeping the leaves of slower-growing species free from nuisance algae. Tall plants seem to be particularly favoured, and these shrimp can often be seen climbing and 'hanging around' in plant cover near to the water's surface. Like most species of shrimp, an elevated nitrate level will not be tolerated - ensure high standards of water quality are maintained at all times, ideally with small partial water changes performed a few times per week. Filtration should be efficient but gentle; always try to aim the output of the filter towards the surface of the water to ensure that there is a sufficient level of oxygenation (something that can be all too easily overlooked in gently filtered shrimp aquaria). Red Crystal Bee Shrimps will moult regularly whilst growing, and the sudden appearance of perfectly formed shrimp casings on the floor of the aquarium can cause alarm to fishkeepers who have not seen this before. The shrimps can sometimes be seen feeding on the casings - this is actually very nutritious for them, so do not rush to siphon them from the substrate. Once the shrimp has moulted, it will remain hidden for a time until the new shell hardens and it has a bit more protection. Be aware that these shrimp do not tend to fare well in water that is over 26 deg C (79 deg F), and for greatest long term health, hard, alkaline conditions are best avoided. A grading system has evolved over time to separate Red Crystal Bee Shrimps with different intensities of colour and size/number of white patches - the higher grades commanding quite astonishing price tags from some breeders. Acclimatise these shrimps very carefully and slowly, either by drip acclimatisation or using a Maidenhead Aquatics Fintro. Red Crystal Bee Shrimps are considered somewhat delicate and so they are not recommended for beginners. Be extremely careful if using CO2 injection on planted aquaria containing these shrimps, as they will not cope with swings in pH. Many aquarists are tempted to mix Red Crystal Bee Shrimps with Cherry Shrimps in the same aquarium, but this is not advised as their temperature requirements are rather different. Although you will always hear of cases where Crystal Red Bee Shrimps have been kept in water with a higher pH or temperature, lifespan, overall health and breeding will be severely diminished under such conditions.

Feeding

Will browse on algae and biofilm. Supplement the diet with algae wafers, sinking pellets, crushed flake foods, small frozen foods such as daphnia, baby brineshrimp, mini-bloodworm etc., and also offer some vegetable matter such as blanched spinach or courgette. It can be beneficial to add some dried Indian almond leaves (Terminalia catappa) to the aquarium as biofilm will form on these as they slowly rot, and this provides a great source of food for the shrimps, whilst helping to maintain a low pH in the aquarium.

Breeding

Red Crystal Bee Shrimps often breed freely in the home aquarium given optimal conditions. Best results occur when the water is slightly soft and acidic, and when temperature is maintained between 21-23 deg C (70-73 deg F). Females may still carry eggs at the higher end of the preferred temperature range, but smaller numbers of young are produced compared to shrimps living in cooler waters. Colours also tend to be more vibrant at lower temperatures. The eggs are held underneath the female until hatching takes place (approx. 1 month), and will be visible within the abdomen. Unlike some species, the young do not go through a larval stage and, are instead, born as miniature replicas of the adult shrimp. On hatching, the offspring will be coloured red and white just like their parents, however, actual grading cannot be performed until they develop further with age, when the quality of features will be easier to determine. Many aquarists like to cover the intakes of power filters with fine sponges to prevent the tiny youngsters from being drawn in.

Amano Plant Shrimp

Care

Introduced to the aquatics trade during the 1980's by planted aquaria guru Takashi Amano, when he noticed this species excellent algae eating capabilities. Must be kept in groups as Amano shrimp live in large social colonies in the wild. Will stay hidden a lot of the time and will enjoy browsing on various types of algae (including hair algae) that have formed on plants and decor. Do not keep with any large or aggressive fish species as they will become an expensive meal. As with all shrimp species, acclimatisation must be carried out slowly and carefully. If ever you need to medicate an aquarium containing Amano shrimp, please check with the manufacturer that the intended medication is safe with shrimp, as not all are. Amano shrimps will moult regularly whilst growing, and the sudden appearance of perfectly formed shrimp casings on the floor of the aquarium can cause alarm to fishkeepers who have not seen this before. Once the shrimp has moulted, it will remain hidden for a time until the new shell hardens and it has a bit more protection. Often also seen on sale as the Japonica Shrimp.

Feeding

Aside from algae eating, this species will appreciate most foods that are added to the aquarium - often darting out to grab a piece and returning to a secluded area to pick at it. Include small pellet foods and algae wafers.

Breeding

Tricky and many different opinions abound. The female incubates up to 2000 eggs for 6 weeks, after which time tiny larvae (not tiny shrimps) are released. These must be immediately and carefully transferred to brackish water and fed miniscule foods such as Liquifry. During a 4 week period, they will moult several times and gradually develop into young shrimps. They must then be carefully and slowly acclimatised back to fresh water. The adults will not survive in brackish water for any length of time, so a separate breeding 'transfer' tank must be available to you.

Masked Fairy Cory

Care

Corydoras atropersonatus is a pretty little species, ideally suited to smaller softwater aquaria. The substrate should consist of soft sand in order to protect the delicate barbel area, and plenty of shady hiding spots amongst bogwood and plants should be incorporated. As a sociable species, the Masked Fairy cory must be kept in groups of 5 or more. The aquarium must be well mature before this species is added and frequent partial water changes are a must, as they can be very sensitive to elevated nitrate levels. Suitable for housing with other small peaceful tankmates such as some of the smaller fish from the tetra, pencilfish and rasbora families. Corydoras have the ability to breathe air intestinally, so a small gap should be left between the surface of the water and the cover slides in order for the fish to come up to the surface and take air in. It may do this numerous times per day. Similar in appearance to C. sychri, which possesses a longer snout.

Feeding

Sinking catfish pellets, frozen foods such as mosquito larvae and brineshrimp.

Breeding

Spawning attempts should be carried out in soft, slightly acidic water. Mature fish (2 males:1 female) can be triggered into spawning by performing a large, slightly cooler water change. When ready to spawn, a pair should adopt the classic Corydoras ‘T position’ where the male fertilises 3-4 eggs that are held between the females’ pelvic fins. This species is said to scatter up to 75 eggs in total over dense planting.

Flame Tetra

Care

A small, peaceful species that is ideal for community aquariums. Must be kept in groups of 6 or more due to shoaling nature. A planted aquarium with shady areas will be much appreciated. Tends to show stronger colouration when kept in softer, slightly acidic water.

Feeding

Flake, micropellets, and frozen foods such as daphnia and mosquito larvae.

Breeding

A separate breeding tank should be set up with soft, acidic water, and plenty of plants, both rooted and floating. The female should release between 200 and 300 eggs which, once fertilised, take 2-3 days to hatch. The parent fish should be removed from the tank once spawning has ceased, in order to prevent predation on the eggs.

Flame Dwarf Gourami

Care

A beautiful hardy species that is available in a number of colour strains. Most specimens offered for sale are captive bred, although delightful, more subtly coloured wild-caught specimens are sometimes available. Peaceful towards other species of fish, however, males may become territorial towards other Dwarf Gouramis when kept together in smaller tanks. A well-planted aquarium with a gentle water flow will help them to feel secure.

Feeding

Offer a varied diet consisting of a good quality flake food, green flake food, and small frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, daphnia, and brineshrimp.

Breeding

A conditioned pair should be acclimatised to a long, shallow aquarium with the temperature set to 29-30 deg C. There should be a good amount of floating plants, to help when the male constructs his bubblenest. Once the male has finished building this nest, which can be up to an inch thick and several inches across, he will begin courting the female. This is usually in the form of him ‘dancing’ around the female and flaring his fins. If the female ‘accepts’ the male, she will swim underneath the bubblenest, where the male will embrace her, wrapping his body around hers. He will turn her onto her side and then her back, at which point, she will release some of her eggs (up to 60), which the male fertilises immediately. The eggs will float upwards towards the nest, and any that stray will be collected by the male and placed into the nest. Once happy that all the eggs are secure, the pair will repeat their spawning/egg collecting actions several times until up to 600 eggs in total have been released. The male then secures the eggs by adding another layer of bubbles beneath the eggs, and it is at this point when the female should be removed. The male will vigorously defend his nest and surrounding territory when the tank is approached. After 12-24 hours, the eggs will hatch, and after another 3 days, they will become free-swimming. The male must be removed from the tank once the fry leave the bubblenest otherwise he will eat them. The fry should be fed on tiny foods such as infusoria or finely powdered fry food for the first week or so, moving on to larger foods as they grow. It is of extreme importance to maintain a warm layer of air between the surface of the water and the coverslides at all times whilst the fry are developing their labyrinth organ, critical during the first few weeks of their life.

Platy

Care

Easy to keep, an ideal choice for the beginner. Ideally, keep at least two females to every male, to ensure that no single female has to continuously cope with the males’ constant amorous intentions. Plant cover will be very much appreciated. Platies are available in a huge array of tank-bred colours and strains including Wagtail, Comet, Mickey-mouse, Tuxedo, Calico, Hi-fin and Spadetail (longtail). The specimens featured in the above photograph are of the Sunset Wagtail variety.

Feeding

Omnivorous. Feed a good quality flake food, small frozen foods such as mosquito larvae and daphnia, and keep with fast-growing fine-leaved plants which the fish will nibble on.

Breeding

Very easy. Platies are livebearers, which means that the females give birth to live young. After fertilisation occurs, the female gestates for 25-30 days, after which time she will give birth to between 20 and 80 free-swimming fry. The adults (and other fish species in the aquarium) will predate on the fry if not separated. However, a few will normally manage to survive onto adulthood when kept in a well planted aquarium with lots of natural hiding places.

Sailfin Molly

Care

This species can attain quite a large size, so an aquarium at least 4ft long is required. For smaller aquariums, consider the standard Molly (Poecilia sphenops) which only grows to approximately half the size of the Sailfin Molly. The addition of a small amount of aquarium salt will be beneficial for the fish, and as plant cover is appreciated, robust plants tolerant of a low level of salt should be chosen. These fish are not suitable for keeping with communities of small fish species which may become harassed and even snacked upon once the boisterous Sailfin Mollies mature. Two or three female Sailfin Mollies should be kept to every male in order to prevent any one female from becoming exhausted by the males’ continual amorous intentions. Suitable tankmates would include some of the medium sized Gouramis (Trichopodus species). Sailfin Mollies are available in a huge array of colour strains. The specimen featured in the above photograph is a ‘Silver’ variety.

Feeding

A good quality flake food should be alternated with a green vegetable flake food and frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, brineshrimp, daphnia etc. Sailfin Mollies will also graze on algae in the tank (although will not have any great impact on it) and will nibble on any fine-leaved plants.

Breeding

Very easy provided you have a male and several females, and will not require a separate breeding aquarium unless you intend to raise larger numbers of the fry. Mollies are livebearers, and after 28 days gestation, females will release between 20 and 150 young.

Lake Tebera Rainbowfish

Care

The Lake Tebera Rainbowfish is a peaceful shoaling species that is ideally suited to the community aquarium, and should be kept in groups of 6 or more fish. The aquarium should be at least 4ft long, as this is an active species that needs swimming space. As with many other Rainbowfish species, the juveniles can look comparatively drab to the absolutely stunning adult fish, and so are all too often overlooked in the shops. However, once settled into the security of the planted aquarium, these young specimens will soon begin to colour up, revealing their true adult beauty. Lake Tebera Rainbowfish will not bother smaller tankmates, as their mouth/throat is too narrow to be able to swallow them. This fish is also suitable for aquariums of a slightly cooler temperature, as it can cope with quite a broad range within its natural distribution area. May also be seen on sale as the Yellow Rainbowfish.

Feeding

Flake, green flake, micropellets, and small frozen foods such as mosquito larvae and daphnia. These fish thoroughly enjoy eating 'duckweed' (Lemna minor).

Breeding

A separate good-sized breeding aquarium should be set up with 75% mature tank water and 25% of dechlorinated fresh water, along with a substrate of marbles. A small air-driven sponge filter (with a mature sponge) should be added to give gentle circulation and filtration. The temperature should be set at 25 deg C. A conditioned pair should then be acclimatised across to the breeding aquarium, which should be furnished with plenty of fine-leaved plants/Java moss clumps. After a time, the male will swim in front of the female, displaying the mating stripe on his forehead. He will then begin to drive the female over the plants, utilising the whole length of the tank. The eggs will be scattered over the plants a few at a time. These fish are known as 'continual spawners' which means that the spawning activity takes place over several days, even months in some cases. This can present problems to the aquarist in that some adult fish may begin to consume the eggs as they are scattered. Many fishkeepers have found the eggs to be remarkably tough and have had great success in siphoning them out into another aquarium (containing matching water from the spawning tank). The eggs will usually hatch in 7-9 days (dependent on temperature) and once free-swimming, the tiny fry can be offered infusoria, moving onto larger foodstuffs as they develop.

Boesemani Rainbowfish

Care

A large shoal of Boesemani Rainbowfish makes for an outstanding display in a large planted aquarium. With their unusual half-and-half natural colouring of blue and yellow/orange, they really are a sight to behold when observed moving through plant cover. Boesemani Rainbowfish are best maintained in groups of 6 or more of their own kind, and the more you can keep together, the merrier. The tank itself should be at least 4ft long with heavy planting along the back and sides with an open swimming area in the centre. Their natural habitat comprises areas of very dense vegetation, and although they will adapt to most conditions, slightly alkaline water is preferable. Clean well-filtered water should be provided at all times, and tight fitting coverslides must be used as these fish are accomplished jumpers. As with many other Rainbowfish species, the juveniles can look comparatively drab to the absolutely stunning adult fish, and so are all too often overlooked in the shops. However, once settled into the security of the planted aquarium, these young specimens will soon begin to colour up, revealing their true adult beauty. Boesemani Rainbowfish are a peaceful species and will not bother smaller tankmates, as their mouth/throat is too narrow to be able to swallow them. Ensure that potential tankmates are happy at the slightly higher temperatures that this particular Rainbowfish enjoys. Sadly, the Boesemani Rainbowfish is listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List of threatened species. This is due to fluctuations in water levels/conditions in the natural habitat and over-fishing of the species for the aquatics trade. The vast majority of the specimens offered for sale in the shops these days are captive bred.

Feeding

Flake, green flake, micropellets, and small frozen foods such as mosquito larvae and daphnia.

Breeding

A separate good-sized breeding aquarium should be set up with 75% mature tank water and 25% of dechlorinated fresh water, along with a substrate of marbles. A small air-driven sponge filter (with a mature sponge) should be added to give gentle circulation and filtration. The temperature should be set at 28 deg C. A conditioned pair should then be acclimatised across to the breeding aquarium, which should be furnished with plenty of fine-leaved plants/Java moss clumps. After a time, the male will swim in front of the female, displaying the mating stripe on his forehead. He will then begin to drive the female over the plants, utilising the whole length of the tank. The eggs will be scattered over the plants a few at a time. These fish are known as 'continual spawners' which means that the spawning activity takes place over several days/weeks, even months in some cases. This can present problems to the aquarist in that some adult fish may begin to consume the eggs as they are scattered. Many fishkeepers have found the eggs to be remarkably tough and have had great success in siphoning them out into another aquarium (containing matching water from the spawning tank) or else using spawning mops, which, when having caught a number of the eggs, can be moved to a separate tank (again with matching water) and replaced with a new mop, as and when each series of eggs are deposited. The eggs will usually hatch in 6-8 days (dependent on temperature) and once free-swimming, the tiny fry can be offered infusoria, moving onto larger foodstuffs as they develop.